Heavy snow on mugho pines should be removed.

We’ve had record-breaking snowfalls here in Southcentral PA over the weekend, and a lot of trees and shrubs are buried under up to 2 feet of heavy wet snow.   In some cases, it becomes necessary to remove this snow load; in other cases, it’s better left alone. 

Deciding when and how to remove snowload from shrubs and trees can be tricky.  Deciduous shrubs (those with bare branches) should be left alone.  These shrubs will most likely be unaffected by the snow fall and trying to knock snow off could  damage brittle twigs. 

In the case of small trees, consider removing heavy snow ONLY if branches are bowed to near breaking.  Some trees are more prone to breakage under snow load, especially those with very narrow-angle crotches between the main trunks and branches. Bradford pears are notorious for splitting under loads, so if you can safely do so, you should try to clean these off. 

Large deciduous trees are too dangerous to fool around with; if you’re concerned about a big tree splitting or losing a major limb under snow, call a professional arborist or the power company.

Conifer trees (firs, spruce, pines…anything that looks like a Christmas tree) should be left alone. These trees evolved in areas of heavy snow and their shape is designed to handle it.  Trying to knock snow off can do more harm than good with these trees. Even in the case of very young conifers that are bowed over under snow, you’re better off leaving them alone. They’ll spring back on their own once the snow falls off naturally. (In addition, birds and small mammals often shelter in the snow covered conifers; the snow acts as a natural insulator against cold temps and wind.  If you knock it off, you deprive wildlife of much-needed shelter.) 

Evergreen shrubs with a more-or-less horizontal shape, such as most low-growing junipers, spreading yews, etc., can be left alone. These tend to accumulate as much snow under them as on them, and the snow underneath acts as a sort of propping cushion for the branches. 

Broadleaf evergreens like rhododendrons and some azaleas are prime candidates for snow removal, as are the more upright forms of needle-leafed evergreen shrubs (things like mugho pine and arborvitae, which are  known for bending under snow load). These plants will not be technically harmed by the weight of snow, but their shape could be ruined if the snow really flattens them. They’ll rebound naturally with a thaw, but if the bending continues for more than a week or so, it could be permanent.

Removing snow from these shrubs takes a little patience and a lot of care.  Always try to work from the bottom up. If you can, shovel a bit of snow out from under the snow-laden shrub, being careful not to damage any branches that might be lying flat under the snow. 

Use a broom, never a snow shovel, to slowly remove the snow from on top of the branches. The safest way to do this is to wedge the head of the broom UNDER the branch and gently and slowly bounce it upward  to get the snow off.  Start at the bottom, so that as you knock off snow from the top of the shrub, it doesn’t add to an already heavy load on the lower branches.  NEVER use a baseball bat, shovel, or other solid object to do this, and never bang downward on the branches. In cold temperatures, and under the stress of heavy snow, you could snap off even sizeable branches and permanently ruin your shrub’s shape.

Most shrubs–even those squashed nearly flat–will rebound slowly once they’re freed of snow. But be aware that some, in particular arborvitae, may never rebound entirely. In those cases, you might need to loosely rope the shrub together, both to prevent further snow spreading and to act as a sort of brace to restore the shrub’s shape.

This mugho pine will probably recover its shape in a week or so.